Willoughby Park Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010

 

 

Made from 60% Manjimup Semillon and 40% Denmark Sauvignon. 30% of the Semillon was fermented in barrel, which shows in the wine, binding it all together.

Aromatically, it’s restrained. There is no aggressive pungency that can ruin Sauvignon and Semillon based wines. If anything, there’s a delicate minerality showing (quartz?). You get a glimpse of what’s to happen on the palate – freshly cut green capsicum and lemon/lime soda. Oak treatment gives a slinky mouthfeel, contrasting with the wine’s intense flavour delivery. No shortage of acidity, but it doesn’t jab you in the cheeks either. There’s a firm handshake between grassy, capsicum characters and the mellow, woody depth of oak.

It’s all about power that’s been moulded into a smooth-edged shape, and at the same time, a refreshing drink in a familiar style. Extremely clever. The winery suggests a pairing with gazpacho, and I can’t think of a better match. Great to see such a wonderful SSB coming from outside Margaret River.

Excellent.

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Retail

Price: $24

Coriole Fiano 2011

 

 

I think this is the third vintage of Coriole’s Fiano that I’ve tasted. They’ve all been consistently good.

Wax. Honeysuckle. Grapefruit pith. Cream. Pear. Very similar to previous vintages, though with perhaps more acidity, which isn’t a bad thing with a wine such as this. The wine’s phenolics, in tandem with a slight saltiness, give a great savoury feel to the palate. A simple note, but one that I think reflects the wine adequately. 

I actually think this wine will improve in a year or so (the 2008 was surprisingly complex when I tasted it last year). But right now, it’s poised and ready to pounce on some food. I’m going to try it with Chinese. A shoulder you can lean on when other 2011s let you down.

Good – Very Good

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Sample

Price: $25

Gibbston Valley Pinot Gris 2009

 

 

Heading off to a Chinese restaurant for dinner tonight, so I thought I’d take a peek at some textural whites. I generally prefer a Kiwi Gris to a Riesling to match Chinese food. Gewürztraminer too.

There’s a bluntness to the nose that’s presumably imparted by sulfur. Initially, a smell of flowers, and talcum powder that’s been perfumed so. I don’t smell enough flowers to be able to tell which one, but it reminded me instantly of a childhood smell of talc. Some creamy notes, as well as pear.

Kicking on to the palate, slightly bitter quince takes charge, followed by stonefruit kernels and even pistachio. A lot of phenolic influence as well as an acidity that’s considerably more noticeable when cold. There’s a lot of pear skin flavour and texture clinging on for dear life, and the wine finishes mostly dry. This is, without doubt, a food wine and I look forward to taking it to the table.

Good.

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Retail

Price: $30

Whicher Ridge Viognier 2009

 

 

Geographe is a pretty underrated region, in my opinion. Geographically, (hehe) it bridges the gap between maritime Margaret River and the inland Blackwood Valley. I’ve tasted good examples of Shiraz, Cabernet, Barbera, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, and now Viognier. I think grapes like Vermentino and Fiano will have a place there too.

At 14.5% alcohol, there’s not much doubt that it’s a Viognier, particularly when the ginger nut and stonefruit aromas hit. The wine carries the burden of alcohol very well indeed – there is no burn or distracting heat. Some minerality is apparent, giving the wine a clean slate on which (hehe) to present itself. A lick of delicate pear flavours join the fray, but it’s mostly an orgy of peach, ginger and apricot, with an ample wash of acidity to clean it all up.

It’s not a showstopper, but it certainly makes me look forward to trying subsequent releases. As far as food goes, take it to a Middle Eastern restaurant and you should be pretty happy.

Very Good.

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Retail

Price: $28 

Dromana Estate ‘i Range’ Late Harvest Arneis 2010

 

 

Yes, you heard right. Arneis is an unusual grape to make a late harvest wine from. That’s why I bought it. Dromana Estate have been producing Arneis for quite a while. In fact, I think my first was one of theirs. This late harvest wine is cane cut, rather than botrytis, preserving the fruit purity.

I’d very much doubt anyone could determine the varietal blindly (though last time I said that I was instantly proven wrong). The wine displays aromas and flavours of apple pie filling, sugared almonds, musk and tinned pears & peaches. It’s relatively straightforward, but there’s enough acidity to keep it fresh and balanced. There’s plenty of substance and weight in the mouth.

At first, some sulfur was knocking it around and I wasn’t too keen, but after dissipating, it’s an enjoyable sweet wine. The label suggests serving it with pannacotta, and I’m inclined to agree.

Good.

Source: Retail

Closure: Screwcap

Price: $20 (375mL)

Holly’s Garden ‘Reverse Cowgirl’

 

 

So unusual, it’s not even commercially available. Whilst it’s made from an all-star cast of multiple white varieties, the winemaker’s intention is to show the regionality of the Whitlands area in King Valley. My dirty mind spots the artwork on the label as a depiction of the wine’s name, overlayed on a patch of soil. Look closely and you’ll see it. If you don’t know what a Reverse Cowgirl is, this wine probably isn’t for you. Or is for you. I don’t know.

It’s unfiltered and has undergone malolactic fermentation. The fruit was picked early to retain acidity. The wine was wild fermented and left on lees in barrel.

Cloudy. About as much as fresh apple juice. Initial aromatic impressions are of almond shell, apricot and mint. There’s a suggestion of something medicinal that I can’t quite put my finger on. Whatever it is, it comes hand in hand with the wild mint character, which also emerges on the palate. It’s a better drink as it warms up, but don’t let it go too far. Quite a bit of brinyness adds savoury interest and contrasts lemon pith phenolic grip and acidity. Marzipan and toast add yet another edge at the end.

A wine with all the thrill, shock and guts of a good horror flick. You need to be prepared for it. Mature audiences only.

Good.

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Tasting

El Castro de Valtuille Mencía Joven 2008

 

 

Mencía is the grape and ‘Joven’ signifies that the wine is intended for early consumption and is (usually) unoaked. Cards face up.

Charred meat and black pepper form the basis of the wine’s aroma. There are some sweet underlying berries which present themselves further on the palate as blackberry nip.

Alcohol (14%) does show with this wine, though surprisingly, I had initially served it slightly chilled and it seemed hot. At room temperature, the body and carpet-like tannins support the alcohol better, I think. There still is a slight alcohol dominance soaked up in the fruit profile.  Simplicity and warmth are perhaps holding it back.

 

Average – Good

Closure: Cork

Source: Retail

Price: ~$28

Fromm ‘La Strada’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010

 

 

Named ‘La Strada’ because the wine was made by Erik Estrada.

 

 

Okay, not really. But it got you thinking, didn’t it?

There’s a bit of oak fermentation magic in here somewhere, which helps bring custard powder and all round awesomeness to the table. Underneath, there’s classic Malborough Savvy. Flavours of green beans, capsicum and other green beasties that emerge from methoxypyrazines. The synergy between lush tropical fruit and oak gives the wine great flow and drinkability. Sure to go well with goats cheese or by itself in a really big glass. A snappy little number that’s out there to please; regardless of whether SB is your thing.

Very Good.

Closure: Diam

Source: Retail

Price: $28

Cullen Mangan 2007

 

 

Here we go. A wine that is really good, but also one that I don’t particularly enjoy drinking. Makes the next fifteen minutes a real challenge.

37% Malbec, 32% Petit Verdot and 31% Merlot. That sounds like something right down my alley. It’s a shame it doesn’t really tickle my fancy. Probably more because of the flavour profile than anything. I’m going to put that aside and review it from a more distant perspective.

Almost everyone who tasted this blind last night figured that it had some Cabernet Franc in there. It does indeed show those characteristics, but contains none of the grape. Maybe it should have for my sake

On day one, it was green, grassy and plump. Day two shows an oxidative raw beef/sausage meat character (Malbec); almost like cheese rind. It’s complex to the point of being foggy. A quick focus shows plum, green olive, leaf, grass, black forest cake, blackcurrant. Margaret River aesthetics. In fact, you could say it’s blended in such a way that encapsulates the region. The real beauty is in the mouthfeel and tannins. Slippery, but hangs on for dear life. I think the best side of this wine will be seen in 3-4 years’ time. Food? Beef Wellington? Something like that.

Clever wine. If you like Margaret River reds, try this. It’s different, smart and true to its terroir. For someone like myself who doesn’t really want to drink it, it’s not hard to see the positive aspects. Just not something I’d go for. I feel that I’ve rated it fairly. As I said; Margaret River encapsulated.

Very Good – Excellent. 

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Retail

Pichler-Krutzler ‘Frauengärten’ Grüner Veltliner 2010

 

Cloudy whites are apparently the theme for tonight. Although, I wasn’t so much expecting this one to be. I do like the looming bottle image, so I made it extra-large.

Unexpectedly cloudy and milky like a cataract. Like a Sauvignon Blanc, it’s grassy and shows an edge of pawpaw. A crunch of green apple helps bring it back to GV territory, though it doesn’t show a lot of spice. Perhaps the slightest hint of pepper and celery, but you wouldn’t see it unless you knew the variety. I do like the cidery finish.

Although it’s a pure and clean wine, it lacks the texture and varietal nature that I love about this grape. There are better GVs for the price. Grüner for the Sauv Blanc drinker.

Average – Good.

Closure: Screwcap

Source: Retail